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Sow beetrot with cloche protection in the first half of the month.
Beetroot can be sown directly in the soil without cloche protection from the second half of the month onwards.
Sow beetroot at monthly intervals so that you can have them spread out through the summer rather than all in one go.
Beetroot are best harvested when they are young, tender and tasty.
Prepare the site for planting next year. Dig it over now and incorporate organic matter. If no organic matter, add long lasting fertiliser like bonemeal or similar.
When the seedlings reach 5cm (2in) high, thin them to 10cm (4in) apart for round or globe varieties and 15cm (6in) apart for long varieties.
Beetroot appreciate a thorough watering if the conditions are dry. This encourages quick growth and more tender roots.
The young seedlings may well attract the unwanted attention of birds. If your area is troubled, it is best to cover them in netting for a while or whatever is your best method. Clear plastic plastic bottles with the top and bottom cut off and placed over the seedlings when they emerge is a good method if you plant only a few seeds.
Prepare the site for planting. Dig it over now and incorporate organic matter. If no organic matter, add long lasting fertiliser like bonemeal or similar.
Sow Broad beans with cloche protection in the middle of the month.
Sow Broad Beans at two week intervals so that you can have them spread over a couple of months rather than all in one go.
Pinch out the growing tips of Broad Beans when the first pods appear at the base of the plant. This will encourage bushier plants with more pods.
Broad beans should be watered in dry conditions especially when they are in flower.
You can sow Brussels Sprouts in a seed bed with cloche protection in the middle of the month.
Brussels Sprouts can now be sown directly in a seed bed without cloche protection from now onwards.
Transplanting Brussels Sprouts helps build up a sturdy root system which helps them withstand strong winds better.
Brussels Sprouts taste better if they have been exposed to some frost.
Prepare the site for planting next year. Dig it over now and incorporate organic matter. If no organic matter, add long lasting fertiliser like bonemeal or similar.
Ensure Brussels Sprouts do not run short of water. Hand weeding (their roots are shallow and easily damaged) will also be necessary occasionally.
Unless the soil is very poor, do not feed with any fertiliser, this will only result in leafy sprouts. A mulch of well-rotted compost will be appreciated.
Carrots prefer a light soil which has been improved with lots of well-rotted organic material fully dug into the soil. If you have no organic matter, add long lasting fertiliser like bonemeal or similar.
You can sow Early varieties of carrots with cloche protection from the midle of the month onwards.
Start to sow early and maincrop (mid month onwards) varieties without cloche protection. Early varieties will take 10 weeks to mature, maincrop varieties will take 16 weeks to mature
Sow maincrop varieties every two weeks or so.
When seedlings are about 2.5cm (1in) high, thin them out. Early varieties should be thinned to 12.5cm (5 in) apart, maincrop varieties to 20cm (8in) apart. To reduce the risk of carrot fly, thin in the evening preferably on soil which has a damp surface. Destroy the thinnings because they will attract carrot fly if left near the seedlings.
Don't feed carrots, this will only encourage the greenery at the expense of the carrot growth. If your soil is sandy it needs improvement with well-rotted compost or other humus material. The reason is that carrots like water and sandy soil does not hold water. Early carrots do better on sandy soil compared to maincrop varieties. The reason is that they have to tolerate less of the dry weather.
Thinning out the seedlings will release the scent of carrots, and attract the attentions of carrot fly. To avoid this, perform this activity in the evening when the carrot fly is not about. Ensure that any soil disturbed by the thinning process is firmed back down with your hand - carrot fly lay their eggs in loose soil around the carrot seedlings.
First, loosen carrots by gently inserting a trowel in the soil around them. Then ease them out of the soil by pulling the foliage as near to soil level as possible.
Harvest spring greens from immature spring cabbage plants.
Harvest fully grown spring cabbage. If you want spring greens late on, leave the root and outer leaves in place.
Harvest spring greens after spring cabbage have been harvested.
Test the soil and if it is acidic apply lime which is available from almost all garden centres. Add a long lasting fertiliser such as bonemeal.
Sow the seed end July or beginning August in a seed bed. See main article for depth and width of sowing.
Earth-up along the row of cabbage to form a ridge about 5cm (2in) high. This will help to support the cabbages in the winter winds and at the same time it will assist in draining water away from the stem at soil level.
Spring Cabbage seed is sown at the height of summer when the soil may be dry. Water well to ensure the plants don't suffer from drought. A mulch of grass will retain moisture.
When the seedlings are about 8cm (3in) high transplant them to their final positions.
There are a huge variety of summer and winter cabbages which can provide a crop for a large part of the year if chosen correctly.
French Beans prefer a rich soil with plenty of well-rotted organic material in it. They have a deep root system, so dig to a spade and a half's depth, incorporating compost or other organic material during the process. If possible, prepare the soil a month or so in advance of sowing the seeds
For dwarf French Beans use twigs for support. Climbing French beans need full support because they grow to 1.8m (6ft).
Sow seeds at the beginning of the month if using cloche protection
Seed can be sown outside without protection from the beginning of the month
For climbing French beans, tie the plants into supports as they grow.
Water frequently in dry conditions. This is especially important when they are in flower.
Harvest when the pods are short and tender. Harvest frequently even when you do not need the crop. This will encourage new pods to form.
If using cloches, early in the month place cloches in position to warm up the soil prior to sowing next month.
Sow leeks indoors if you an earlier crop compared to sowing outside.
If using cloches, sow leek seeds early this month with cloche protection.
Late in this month sow leek seeds outside without cloche protection.
Transplant leeks to their final growing position if they have been grown inside.
Early this month thin leeks for the first time to 3cm (1in) apart.
Late this month thin leeks for the second time to 15 cm (6in) apart.
Water well in dry conditions. A mulch of well-rooted compost around the leeks (but definitely not touching them) will provide slow release nutrients and conserve water.
Hoe around the leeks to reduce weeds and let air into the soil.
If blanching leeks, begin to earth up now. A collar is necessary on damp soils if earthing up, to reduce the risk of disease.
Continue to earth up leeks.
Harvest early variety leeks.
Harvest later varieties of leeks as and when required.
Select a position(s) for growing lettuce. Early sown lettuce need a sunny place but lettuce which will not be harvested by end June needs a position in the shade at the warmest part of the day. Dig the soil to a spade's depth.
Place cloches in position to warm up the soil for sowing under cloches next month.
Sow Butterhead, Iceberg / Crisp Heart and Cos lettuce with cloche protection. Remove the cloches in early April.
Sow Butterhead, Iceberg / Crisp Heart and Cos lettuce without cloches.
Harvest lettuce earlier rather than later to avoid them bolting.
Regular hoeing during the summer to prevent competition from weeds. Regular watering to ensure crisp lettuces which do not bolt.
Apply a mulch (well rotted compost, black plastic or carpet) to reduce water loss and prevent weeds.
Sow Spring maturing lettuce if you live in a warm area.
Sow Picking / Loose Leaf lettuce without cloche protection.
Sow all types of summer lettuce without cloche protection.
Prepare soil prior to planting onion sets well in advance to allow it to settle before sowing / planting. Choose a sunny position protected from harsh winds. Dig the soil incorporating as much well-rotted organic matter as possible.
Plant onion sets under cloche protection mid month onwards to the middle of next month.
Plant onion sets without protection from the middle of the month onwards.
Feed onions with a nitrogen rich fertiliser once a month. Keep them watered and weed-free.
Start to sow spring onions and sow some every month until end July.
Onion sets should be ready to start harvesting. Don't harvest all at once, they will keep in the ground for a month or so.
Early in the month prepare soil prior to sowing onion seed well in advance to allow it to settle before sowing / planting. Choose a sunny position protected from harsh winds. Dig the soil incorporating as much well-rotted organic matter as possible.
Sow onion seed under cloche protection mid month onwards to the middle of next month.
Sow onion seed without protection from the middle of the month onwards.
Feed onions with a nitrogen rich fertiliser once a month. Keep them watered and weed-free.
Start to sow spring onions and sow some every month until end July.
Onion seed should be ready to start harvesting. Don't harvest all at once, they will keep in the ground for a month or so.
Prepare soil prior to planting Japanese onion seed well in advance to allow it to settle before sowing / planting. Choose a sunny position protected from harsh winds. Dig the soil incorporating as much well-rotted organic matter as possible
Japanese onions sown the previous year should be ready for harvest.
Sow Japanese onion seed for harvesting next year.
Prepare the soil prior to planting using lots of well-rotted compost. Don't add any extra nitrogen.
Early in the month, sow outside with cloche protection or indoors. Using a cloche will enable you to sow about three weeks earlier than normal. Remove the cloches when the peas touch the roof.
Late in the month, sow outside without cloche protection. Sow seed 3 cm (1 in) deep and 5 cm (2 in) apart. Rows should be the eventual height of the plants apart. Thin the seeds as recommended on the packet when they reach 5 cm (2 in) high.
Erect supports for the plants when they reach 10 cm (4 in) height.
Peas need constant moisture so mulch with well-rotted compost to retain moisture and prevent weed competition.
For taller growing varieties, pinch out leading shoots when they are 15cm (6in) from the top of the support.
Harvest when the peas are young and tender. Harvest time will depend on the variety.
Parsnips are best harvested after there has been a frost.
Only use fresh parsnip seed. Make a shallow drill in the soil 2cm (žin) deep. Where sowing more than one row, space the rows 45 cm (18in) apart. Sow one seed every 5cm (2in).
When the seedlings are 5 cm (2 in) tall, thin them to 20cm (8in) apart.
Water when conditions are dry.
Prepare soil prior to planting. Choose a sunny position protected from harsh winds. Dig the soil incorporating as much well-rotted organic matter as possible. Do not add lime.
Start sprouting maincrop varieties late in this this month. Sprouting is starting the potatoes into growth before they are planted. This is not essential but will result in earlier crops. See main potato article for more detials.
Plant sprouted maincrop potatoes with the sprouts pointing upwards. Plant 10cm (4 in) deep, 30cm (1 ft) apart in rows 60cm (2 ft) apart.
Protect early and maincrop varieties if a frost threatens. At this time of year the tubers under the surface are unlikely to be damaged but a frost can severely damage the foliage.
Earth up all potato varieties. Pinch off flowers to increase the size of the potato crop.
Spray with Bordeaux mixture to prevent blight. If conditions are damp, a second spraying in three weeks time may be advisable.
Harvest maincrop potatoes. Harvest time will depend on the variety.
Prepare soil prior to planting. Choose a sunny position protected from harsh winds. Dig the soil incorporating as much well-rotted organic matter as possible. Do not add lime.
Start sprouting new potatoes in the middle of this this month. Sprouting is starting the potatoes into growth before they are planted. This is not essential but will result in earlier crops. See main potato article for more detials.
Plant sprouted new potatoes with the sprouts pointing upwards. Plant 10cm (4 in) deep, 30cm (1 ft) apart in rows 60cm (2 ft) apart.
Protect new potatoes if a frost threatens. At this time of year the tubers under the surface are unlikely to be damaged but a frost can severely damage the foliage.
Earth up new potato varieties. Pinch off flowers to increase the size of the potato crop.
Harvest new potatoes. Harvest time will depend on the variety.
Plant new potatoes in July or August and they will be ready for harvest well before Christmas.
If you have a cloche or poly tunnel then radishes can be sown under them this month..
Sow raishes thinly to reduce the need to thin them. Mark out a shallow drill, place the seed in it and barely cover the seed with fine soil. Water gently to avoid washing away the seed.
Summer radishes should be harvested when they are crisp and young, normally about five weeks after sowing - consult the seed packet. If they are left in the ground past maturity they will go peppery and the texture will quickly loose it's crispness. If you have too many at any one, give them to friends because they do not freeze well and will only last five days or so in the fridge.
Prepare soil prior to planting rhubarb to allow it to settle before sowing / planting. Choose a sunny position protected from harsh winds. Dig the soil to a depth of 60cm (2 feet) adding as much well-rotted organic matter as possible. Remove
all weeds in the area to be planted.
Plant rhubarb. The top of the crown should be 2.5cm (1 inch) below the surface. Mark the planting position until the rhubarb plant emerges.
Start to force rhubarb for an early and tender crop. Place a container (large bucket) over the rhubarb and let it grow without light.
Apply a well-rotted compost mulch around but not touching the rhubarb. This will conserve water and reduce the soil temperature.
Harvest forced rhubarb. You will obtain a crop roughly one month earlier than rhubarb grown in the normal way.
Harvest normally grown rhubarb. Don't do this in the first year. Don't eat the leaves because they are poisonous.
Divide rhubarb every five years or so. This will de-congest the parent plant and provide you with other rhubarb plants for free.
Dig the soil prior to planting using lots of well-rotted compost.
Late in the month sow outside with cloche protection or indoors. Using a cloche will enable you to sow about three weeks earlier than normal. Remove the cloches when the runner beans touch the roof.
Late in the month sow outside without cloche protection. Sow seed 5cm (2in) deep and 15cm (6in) apart. Rows should be 1.5m (5ft) apart.
Thin out the seedlings to one every 30cm (1ft).
Early in the month erect the supports for the Runner Beans
Tie in the Runner beans to the supports as they grow.
Late this month or next month care for your Runner Beans with a mulch of well-rotted compost. Weed as required.
Water in dry conditions. This is especially important with Runner Beans because they have no resistance to drought.
Pinch out the growing tips when the tendrils reach the top of the supports. Thin out the top if it becomes congested.
Harvest when the beans are young and tender. Harvest frequently to ensure your Runner Beans continue to crop.
Swedes are unfortunately prone to club root so make sure the soil is not too acidic. Acid soils encourage club root. The
ideal pH for swedes is somewhere between 7.0 and 7.4. If the soil is short of nutrients then add some well-rotted manure a month or so prior to sowing seed.
Mark out a drill about 3cm (žin) deep and sow the seed thinly. If you are sowing more than one row then the rows should be 60cm (24in) apart.
Thin the seedlings out to about 25cm (10in) apart.
Keep swede well- watered if conditions are dry.
Your swedes will be large enough for harvesting in early autumn. But if you leave them in the ground until the odd frost or two has got to them then they will taste much sweeter.
At the beginning of the month dig soil to a spade's depth, incorporate lots of organic matter and a handful of bonemeal per square metre (yard).
If you plan to use cloches place them in position a month before sowing the seed to warm up the soil and encourage early germination.
Sow sweet corn seeds outside with cloche protection.
Late this month sow sweet corn seeds indoors.
Plant out the seedlings grown indoors. Water if conditions are at all dry
Feed at fortnightly intervals with a tomato fertiliser.
Water if conditions are dry
Mulch round the plants with well-rotted compost or straw.
Earth up (gather soil around the base of the plants) 10cm (4 ins) high.
Earth up another 10cm (4 ins) around the base of the plants.
Harvest sweet corn from now on depending on the variety. Eat immediately or freeze.
Prepare soil prior to planting. Choose a sunny position protected from harsh winds. Dig the soil incorporating lots of well-rotted organic matter.
Sow indoors / under cover. Sow two seeds in a 8 cm (3in) pot just covering the seeds with compost. Water until the compost is moist. Place them in a warm place (no light is needed yet) up to 80°F (27°C). When the seedlings emerge in 7 to 10 days, place them in a light position but not in direct sunlight. Thin each pot to the strongest seedling. Re-pot into a larger pot if the roots appear out of the base of the pot.
When the seedlings are 5 cm (2 in) tall, thin them to 20cm (8in) apart.
Late this month or early next month, transplant tomatoes grown inside (or bought ones) to outside. Ideally the plants should be hardened off by placing than outside during the day for a week or so before permanently planting outside. Plant deeper than the original depth of the pot, up to the first set of leaves is ideal. This will encourage the plant to produce stronger roots. Plant 18 to 24ins (42 to 60cm) apart and water well. Insert plant stakes and tie the plant to the stake as they grow.
Water in dry conditions (tomatoes love a constant supply of water).
Remove side-shoots (not bush varieties). Tomato plants are two basic types, bush and vine. The vine types should have all shoots removed which are appearing where two main stems join.
Remove any yellowing or diseased foliage, this will help prevent disease.
Limit plant to 5 to 7 trusses. Too many tomatoes will result in small tomatoes.
Thin out the foliage of bush varieties.
Harvest. If a frost threatens, pick off all tomatoes. Green ones can be ripened by placing them on a windowsill out of direct sunlight.