All the items in red
mentioned in this article are available at the
Green Pest Control Company website.
I have tried each of them personally and they work.
The prices on the website are the price you pay - there is no
If you order by phone or e-mail, quote GARDENACTION and you will
In some cases gas pellets are used. These pellets are a soluble
Aluminium phosphide concoction that reacts with the damp in the soil,
however gassing does not achieve the same level of eradication as
strychnine; most gasses dissipate in to the soil unless it is a very
heavy clay. I have been led to believe the mole goes to sleep with this
method of control, I like to think this is the case. I should add that
gassing and strychnine control are restricted to professional use only.
In the garden we are left with two effective method of mole control,
mole traps and sonic control.
There are 3 main types of mole trap, the
scissor, barrel and live catch
traps. My preference is for the scissor type of trap, I achieve
about an 80% success rate using these traps but they all work if
set correctly. If you are using the live catch type the captured
mole must be dispatched humanely. I don�t like releasing the moles
to another area where the mole could be up against established and
very territorial resident moles.
On the other hand, if you release them to an area where there are no
resident moles, the question must be asked is there a shortage of mole
food? Moles need to eat between 60 - 200 worms a day, they will also take
the odd chafer grub but the main diet is earthworm. They store their
food in mole larders but first they bite the heads off the worm. I have
looked at worms very closely and I found it hard to know which end is
which, but moles know even in total darkness!
Before using a mole trap for the first time bury it in the garden for
a week to remove the 'new' smell, and remember don�t have perfume,
disinfectant or other strong odours on your hands - moles have a great
sense of smell. I don�t wear gloves when setting traps,
because most gloves have a strong smell. Don�t forget to
mark where you buried the trap, it is surprising how many traps never
get used because we forget where we buried them, I have lost dozens over
Live Catch Mole Trap
Let�s assume we are using a
mole scissor trap.
These are the easiest to set and can normally be checked to see
if they have been tripped without removing them from the ground. By the
same token they are open to vandalism. Remember not everyone likes to
see moles controlled.
Locate the mole run using a long probe, an old knitting needle is
ideal (I use a thin screwdriver). Start to probe the ground until the
soil "gives" indicating a run, normally within 12 inches of the freshest
molehill but not in it. Old molehills can be recognised because they
will have weeds growing through and from them, also the grass below the
hill will be light coloured. It is important that you do not put the
mole trap in the mole hill.
With an old knife cut the sod to remove a piece the size of a saucer,
being as clean as possible and trying to avoid soil going into the mole
run. If soil drops into the run the mole will push it forward and trip
the trap. When you find the run, position the mole trap, replace the sod you
removed around the legs of the trap, excluding as much light as