Growing Rhubarb
(continued - page 3)

Tempting though it may be, do not pull any stems during the first season - this would seriously weaken the plant. Let the plant grow during the first year and establish a good healthy root system.

During the second season, pull only a few stems, ensuring that you only pull two per plant at any one time and that five healthy stems always remain.

In subsequent years pull three or four stems at a time always leaving three or four - the cropping season is early May to July or August, and you should get two or three chances during this time. Select the largest stalks, waiting for the leaves to fully open before pulling. 

Stalks are taken by gently pulling the stalk as low as possible to the base of the plant and at the same time twisting. The leaves can go on the compost heap - definitely don't eat them because they are poisonous.

Force Rhubarb
Forced rhubarb is delicious - the stems are more tender, sweeter and don't need to be peeled. It's a simple process and well worth trying.

All you need is a container (dustbin, box, large pot, bucket etc.) which will exclude light. Place it over the rhubarb as soon as it begins to show signs of growth. The lack of light and the heating effect of the container will rapidly bring on the rhubarb which should be ready for eating in about four weeks, a good month or so before rhubarb that is not forced. When the rhubarb is picked (or it outgrows the covering) remove the covering and leave the rhubarb to recover for next year. Have a go, it's really simple and worthwhile.

Pests and Diseases
Originating from Siberia, rhubarb is very strong and suffers from few diseases or pests. The only problem will be Crown rot - the top of the plant rots badly and it can be knocked of with ease. There is no cure, dig up the infected plant and burn it.

Which Variety
GardenAction recommend Cawood Delight - the stalks are long and scarlet with a great taste. A second choice is Victoria which is the best variety to choose if you want to grow from seed.

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